20 Repair Costs Found in Every Home Inspection (2026 Price List)

How to Read Your Home Inspection Report

Every home inspection report — even on a brand-new home — finds problems. The average inspection identifies 25-50 individual issues. The question isn't whether issues will be found; it's whether you can afford the ones that are.

This guide covers the 20 most common findings inspectors flag in 2026, with real cost ranges based on national averages. Use it as a quick lookup when reviewing your inspection report — then plug each item into our Home Inspection Cost Estimator for a complete pre-offer total.

Important: every cost in this guide assumes professional installation. DIY costs run 50-70% lower for skilled homeowners but require proper permits and code compliance for any structural, electrical, or plumbing work.

Items 1-5: The Cheap Easy Fixes ($50 – $500)

**1. Caulking around tubs, sinks, and windows** — $100-$400. Old caulk lets water penetrate and is the #1 cause of preventable water damage. DIY-friendly with a tube of silicone ($8) and 30 minutes per area.

**2. Replacing smoke and carbon monoxide detectors** — $150-$400 for a typical home. Code requires CO detectors near sleeping areas and smoke detectors in every bedroom plus hallway. Hardwired units cost more than battery.

**3. GFCI outlet replacement (per outlet)** — $200-$400 each. Required in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, exterior outlets, and unfinished basements. A typical home needs 4-8 GFCI replacements.

**4. Door and window weatherstripping** — $150-$500 whole house. Reduces heating bills by 10-15% and is one of the highest-ROI minor repairs.

**5. Garage door spring replacement** — $150-$400 per spring. Always replace springs in pairs for balanced operation. DIY is possible but the springs are under high tension and dangerous to handle improperly.

Items 6-10: Plumbing and Drainage ($150 – $3,500)

**6. Toilet replacement (per toilet)** — $400-$900 installed. Older toilets use 3-7 gallons per flush vs. 1.28 gallons for modern WaterSense models. Replacement pays back through water savings in 4-7 years.

**7. Faucet leak repair or replacement** — $150-$700 per fixture. A constantly dripping faucet wastes 3,000+ gallons annually. Cartridge replacement is often a $30 part with $150 labour.

**8. Water heater replacement** — $1,200-$3,500 for tank, $3,000-$6,000 for tankless. Tank water heaters last 8-12 years; replacement is a near-certainty if the unit is over 10 years old.

**9. Sump pump installation or replacement** — $500-$1,800. Critical for basements and crawl spaces in any climate with rainfall. Battery backup adds $300-$600.

**10. Drain line snake or hydro-jet** — $200-$700 main line, $150-$400 secondary line. Recommended every 18-24 months in older homes to prevent backup.

Items 11-15: Electrical Updates ($200 – $5,000)

**11. Adding GFCI breaker in panel** — $200-$400 per breaker. More elegant than individual outlet replacement when an entire circuit needs protection.

**12. Replacing aluminium wiring connections** — $80-$150 per connection, typical home needs 50-100 connections. Total: $4,000-$15,000 for full retrofit. Insurance often requires this.

**13. Adding dedicated circuit (kitchen, bathroom, EV)** — $300-$1,500 per circuit depending on distance from panel and amperage. EV charger circuits run $1,000-$2,500.

**14. Replacing electrical panel** — $1,500-$4,000 for 100A to 200A upgrade. $3,500-$7,500 for service entry upgrade including new meter base and grounding.

**15. Light fixture replacement** — $100-$500 each. Whole-house update typically $2,000-$5,000 and dramatically improves home appearance.

Items 16-20: Major Systems ($800 – $25,000)

**16. Roof partial repair** — $500-$3,500. Common findings: damaged shingles, flashing leaks, soft spots in decking. Patches buy 2-7 years before full replacement.

**17. HVAC service or repair** — $300-$2,500. Typical findings: dirty coils, low refrigerant, failing capacitors, or undersized units. Annual service prevents 70% of these issues.

**18. Insulation top-up in attic** — $1,500-$3,500 for an average home. Upgrades from R-19 to current code (R-49) typically pay back in energy savings within 6-10 years.

**19. Crawl space encapsulation** — $3,500-$15,000 depending on size. Prevents moisture, mould, and pest issues. Required in many regions for newer homes.

**20. Foundation crack sealing** — $500-$2,500 for cosmetic cracks. $5,000-$25,000+ for structural foundation work. Always have an engineer evaluate cracks wider than 1/8 inch.

Total Cost Estimation Strategy

On an average pre-2000 home, expect $8,000-$20,000 in 'first-year fix list' items from the inspection report. On a pre-1980 home, that number rises to $20,000-$50,000.

These costs are real but not fatal — they're the cost of owning real estate. The mistake is assuming the seller has handled them, or that they'll wait. Most won't.

Use our Home Inspection Cost Estimator (linked above) to plug in each finding from your inspection report and get a complete total. That number is your renovation budget — and it's the number you should use to negotiate your offer or seller credits.

Which Items to Negotiate

Not every item on your inspection list deserves equal attention in negotiation. Here's the smart prioritisation.

Always negotiate (high cost, easy to verify): roof condition over 15 years old, HVAC over 12 years, electrical panel issues, major plumbing replacement needs, structural cracks, water intrusion, and any safety hazard.

Sometimes negotiate (moderate cost, easy to fix): GFCI outlets, weatherstripping, water heater age, garage door issues, and major appliance condition.

Don't negotiate (low cost, expected of any home): minor caulking, light fixture cosmetics, minor cosmetic flooring or paint, and standard maintenance items. Asking for these makes you look unreasonable and can sour the negotiation.

Best practice: pick your top 3-5 issues and ask for a credit equal to 80% of their estimated repair cost. Sellers see this as fair; buyers preserve cash for after move-in.